Category Archives: Uncategorized

Goat pregnancy feed ration change in the last 6 weeks

Pregnancy food ration change for dairy goats

Changing feed ration from jr. doe or dry doe to milker, in the last 6 weeks of pregnancy:

in the last 6 weeks of pregnancy:

Dry does will change from 1lb per day to 4lbs per day in the last 6 weeks

Week 6: feed 1.5 lbs per day – about 2 and ¼ cups per feeding

Week 5: feed 2 lbs per day- about 3 cups per feeding

Week 4: feed 2.5 lbs per day – about 3 and ¾ cup per feeding

Week 3: feed 3 lbs per day – about 4.5 cups per feeding

Week 2: feed 3.5 lbs per day – about 5 and ¼ cups per feeding

Week 1: feed 4 lbs per day – about 6 cups per feeding

The last 3 days of your does pregnancy you may want

To cut the ration back to 3 cups per feeding for 3 days to prevent flag.

Flag is when a does udder fills in to quickly and becomes tight and really

Firm and it swells preventing the milk supply from being fully expressed.

After the doe kids you can up her food back to the 6 cup per feeding ( 4lb ) ration again.

My Alpine feeding chart and Supply list

  1. Thorvin Kelplink
  2. Sea 90 or Himalayan salt on a rope sea 90 link , salt on a rope is at Tractor supply
  3. Wick’s High Copper Mineral or a good similar goat mineral ( I buy mine from a distributor in the south)like this link
  4. Hoof trimmers trimmers link
  5. Andis Clippers andis link
  6. Golden Barrel Unsulphured Black Strap molasses molasses link
  7. Stainless Steel Milk Bucket, I like a 9 quart bucket and a 5 quart for small amounts, I got mine off ebay and a farm store, but they do have cheap ones at Jefferspet pail link
  8. Stainless Steel Milk Strainer
  9. Milk Filters ( I use homemade reusable ones out of Birds Eye Cloth from an Air Force Base)
  10. The Accessible Pet, Equine and Livestock Herbal book link
  11. Braggs apple Cider vinegar , can be bought at the grocery store, make sure it has the “mother”
  12. Rhinehart X-30 dehorner disbudder link
  13. Large scale for weighing babies and adult goats to make sure they are growing well, make sure they weigh enough to breed, and for deworming weights. scale
  14. Milk weighing scale scale link
  15. Navel Clips clips link
  16. Natural Goat Care book link
  17. GI Soother for cocci preventative in baby goats in the spring GI Soother link
  18. Nav-All tincture naval dip link
  19. Cayenne Organic Tincture cayenne link
  20. 30cc nylon syringe with drench tip drencher link
  21. Ewe-ter-N labor help herb link
  22. The Small Scale Dairy book link
  23. I feed a pregnancy herb mix of red raspberry, stinging nettle, and rose hip and get these herbs from Mountain Rose Herbs and feed this the last month of pregnancy. I use chopped herbs not powdered. The goats like it.

Alpine Dairy Goat Feeding Chart Feed all animals these amounts 2x a day

Get a feed bucket, about 2.5 gallon, put in
(Use a 3 to 4 cup scoop)
1 scoop alfalfa pellets
1 scoop whole oats
½ scoop BOSS-Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
1 scoop alfalfa pellets

Mix well, repeat, mix well again

Feed milkers – 6 cups of mix per feeding

does and bucks from 2-3 months the mix in a trough together about ½ cup each of the mix

Feed does and bucks from 4-6 months- 1 cup each of the mix

Feed dry does and young does 6 months and up – 1 ½ cups of the mix

Feed bucks not in rut- 1 ½ cup of mix

Feed bucks in rut- 3 cups of mix- they are in rut Sept. to Feb.

Also feed a high quality goat mineral and Organic Thorvin Kelp regularly or free choice, Sea 90 or Himalayan salt and forage or hay free choice.
Keep in mind everyone feeds something different and different lbs per day as well. I am just showing what I do as a guide for someone new without any idea of where to start. If I had a really heavy milker that could not hold weight well, I would up the food.
Since I came up with this ration and the measurements myself, be aware it was not made up by a scientist. I did however study the calcium to phosphorus ratios of foodstuffs and decided which foods to feed based on what is available here as well. I have the calcium ratio at 1.2 to 1 phosphorus. Also this rations is about 14 percent protein. I have read in my books and goat health articles that 12 percent is the desired amount to be fed to dairy goats if they have free choice alfalfa hay and up to 14 percent if they do not have free choice alfalfa. Mine do not have free choice alfalfa hay, but also half of my ration is alfalfa. This does not go along with the modern idea the more protein the better, but it is healthier for the goats and causes less stress on their system, and mine do well on it. The alfalfa is grown northwest as well, but the whole oats are grown here. When I am upping the food amount during pregnancy in the last 6 weeks, instead of feeding the whole ration the last week I will slack off (feed half a milkers ration) about 4 days before kidding so that the udder does not become real so full so quickly. Flag, meaning hard congested udder that has little milk moving through it, is no fun. In about a three day period I will then up the food daily to be at a full milkers ration by day four. I was using barley and think it was an awesome addition to a goat feeding program however the price and difficulty to get it has made me not use it anymore.

How to collect and send in blood and milk samples for pregnancy or CAE

I do my pregnancy testing only if I am unsure that the goat is bred and really want to put my mind at ease.  Most times goat pregnancy rate for conception is very high and only one breeding is necessary.  I keep my girls in a pen to where they can have a buck on another side of the fence to walk up to and worry through the fence.  This tells me she is in heat and ready.  I then take her by the collar and lead her to him and let him mount once and then lead her back out.  I do it again a couple hours later, and then maybe ounce more that day it she is persistent.  If she is still in heat the next day I will repeat what I did the day before.  This will help to keep the buck from getting wore down and if I need him for another doe within a day or two, he will be able to cover them fine.  Anyway, to pull blood for pregnancy is no fun, so I want to tell you if you have a doe or a cow that is in milk, you can send in a tube with 12cc milk in it and it can tell you if she is bred as long as she is at least one month bred.  If she is a first freshener then blood will be required ( one month bred as well). I will now add the link to the place I get my milk test done, Lancaster DHIA, real nice customer service and just call them to order the vials.  The pregnancy milk test is $3.25 plus shipping for goat or cow.  I like to ship via flat rate post office small box that is $6 to ship and will get there in two days, so if I send it off Monday I generally have results by Friday the same week, awesome.  They test for mastitis as well and you DO NOT have to keep it cold and I send it the same way.  I like to wrap my milk or blood tube in bubble wrap and place it inside a ziploc bag.  milk test lab link                                                                                                                             I use Bio Tracking( Bio Pryn)Bio Tracking page link for all blood test.  Order your vials through them, I do not like to use their kit personally, just the vials.  This company lets you choose the lab nearest you, here in Alabama I like to use the lab in Dublin TX.dublin TX lab link with forms .  Remember, do NOT, test for CAE under one year old preferably.  Also, results should be most accurate when the doe is not bred and is at least two months past delivery and is not sick otherwise.  This link has the form you print out and send in with your sample.I put does on the milk stand and one person will need to straddle the doe and hold her head upward and still.  I like to get out my razor and shave the neck where the vein is.  Look slightly to the left or right of the center of the neck. Here is a link to a video that does it just like we do. blood pulling youtube video   The vein will be soft, not hard, and press on it with your thumb to get it to bulge to see it better.  You cleanse the shaved spot with alcohol and a cotton ball.  Then insert a 22 gauge needle on a 3ml syringe.  Keep in line with the neck going in at an angle and upward vertically with the neck, NOT Straight in towards the throat.  Pull the full 3ml and then place the cotton ball back on that spot firmly for a few seconds to help with bleeding.  Then plunge that blood into you biopryn blood vacuum tube.  Now the vacuum is lost and you need to pull the air back out and create the vacuum again.  Stick the empty needle into only the air in the tube and pull back until it is hard to pull back, done.  Now I forgot to mention that you should write the name of the animal down before you put the blood in the tube, you can put a number beside the name as well, use a permanent marker.  I keep the blood upright in the tube for an hour at room temperature, then I place them in the fridge until sent off.

How to recognize a quality dairy goat

I know everyone has a different idea of what a quality dairy goat looks like and milks like.  I would like to just share a post that I am a large fan of that has many pictures to help you understand what traits are favorable and unfavorable.  This knowledge can help you understand what to start breeding towards.  You want a milker that can make a lot of milk, yes, but you want it to be able to move well and function well for a long time.  Working on quality legs, great udder attachments, and good width and depth will help your herd be productive for a longer period of time.  I think all breeders should pay attention to immune system of their herd as well and include this factor in deciding which ones to keep and which ones to part with.  Here is the link to the page that has pictures and descriptions of different parts of the dairy goat-link page